CHANGE
Environmental systems shift in clothing consumption
In CHANGE, we will investigate what is most essential to reduce the environmental impact of clothing: reduce the amount of clothing that is produced, acquired and disposed of.
Environmental impacts from the clothing sector have increased rapidly within the last 30 years, with clothing consumption as an important driver due to the large volumes of clothing that are produced, used and disposed of. Yet, research on clothing consumption, and knowledge of how clothing is used and how this affects the total volume of clothing, is limited. In CHANGE, we will investigate what is most essential to reduce the environmental impact of clothing: reduce the amount of clothing that is produced, acquired and disposed of.
CHANGE will concentrate on two important elements in clothing consumption. One is to be properly dressed for the occasion, and the other is clothing standards related to the expectation of variety of garments. Where do these ideas come from? And how have they shaped our clothing habits over the last 200 years? We will look at why and how we change clothes between different occasions and the expectation and desire for variety of garments. The project objective is to improve our knowledge of how clothing volumes can be reduced by increasing the understanding of how people use clothing and how this has developed over time. The project will mainly study Norwegian clothing consumption through quantitative and qualitative wardrobe studies of couples. These will contrast with other wardrobe studies in and outside Europe. By looking at the connection between the individual consumer’s practices and different clothing standards, and the consequences this has on an overall level, we will contribute with knowledge and theoretical concepts that bring consumption – the use of clothing – into debates and politics about clothing and the environment.
The project has been awarded 12 million from the funding scheme Ground-breaking research (FRIPRO) from the Research Council of Norway, from July 2021-2025. Project leader is Ingun Grimstad Klepp from Consumption Research Norway SIFO, OsloMet. Also from SIFO is senior researcher Kirsi Laitala and PhD student. Irene Maldini from Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences brings in methodological and empirical expertise in wardrobes in the Netherlands and Uruguay. The latter with Lucrecia de Léon from the Universidad de la República. Kate Fletcher from the Center for Sustainable Fashion at UAL brings an outside perspective where change at the system level is discussed. Else Skjold from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts takes responsibility for a network of students and researchers together with Liudmilla Aliabieva from Moscow University. Bjørn Sverre Hol Hagen from UiO / Anno Museum and Marie Ulväng from Stockholm University will add their historical dimension to the project, while Tone Skårdal Tobiasson will be responsible for dissemination and network building.
Participants at SIFO
- Ingun Grimstad Klepp
- Kirsi Laitala
- Vilde Haugrønning
- Ingrid Haugsrud
External Participants
- Irene Maldini, Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences
- Lucrecia de Léon, Universidad de la República
- Kate Fletcher, Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts
- Else Skjold, Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts
- Liudmilla Aliabieva, Moscow University
- Bjørn Sverre Hol Hagen, UiO / Norsk Folkemuseum
- Marie Ulväng, Stockholm University
- Tone Skårdal Tobiasson
New briefing outlining research behind the TPR proposal
During a meeting earlier this year with a team from the European Commission Executive Vice-President for the European Green Deal, Frans Timmermans’ office, the authors of this new paper were asked to supply more background on the Targeted Producer Responsibility they presented. As the first step in supplying more research-based data and knowledge, the paper…
Continue Reading New briefing outlining research behind the TPR proposal
Critical background paper on PEF for apparel and footwear
This week saw the publication of a critical background paper on concerns surrounding the Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules for Apparel and Footwear from a consortium representing the collaborative international research project Wasted Textiles at Consumption Research Norway SIFO at Oslo Metropolitan University. The consortium were asked to supply more background information to the EU Commission after a knowledge sharing meeting January 25 hosted by…
Continue Reading Critical background paper on PEF for apparel and footwear
New Research Centre in Copenhagen based on wardrobe research
The CHANGE masterclass seminar held at the Royal Danish Academy in Copenhagen September 30th 2022 hosted another interesting occasion. This was the launch of KLOTHING – Centre for Apparel, Textiles & Ecology Research. The first Danish research center on fashion, textiles and sustainability lead by me, Associate Professor, PhD, Else Skjold, who has been central…
Continue Reading New Research Centre in Copenhagen based on wardrobe research
Travel letter Uruguay December 2022
In the middle of Advent 2022, Vilde, Kirsi and Ingun traveled to Uruguay. Irene was already there with her family, and the trip was well planned in collaboration with Irene, who lives in Portugal, but is from Uruguay, and Lucrecia who works in Montevideo. Part of the background for the trip was the testing of…
A real CHANGE
Casual and formal on a trajectory to merge? This question is emerging both in research and when looking at consumer trends for clothing and fashion. As part of the CHANGE project, one trajectory being explored is a return to clothing that is more versatile and less defined by occasion. In this exploration, a “mix and…
Clothing Research contributes to new report on over-consumption
The Clothing Research Group, SIFO at OsloMet, has contributed to the recent Hot or Cool Institute report Unfit, Unfair, Unfashionable: Resizing Fashion for a Fair Consumption Space (download the report from Hot or Cool here). The contribution is in the form of a critique of EU’s textile strategy which was launched in March 2022. The…
Continue Reading Clothing Research contributes to new report on over-consumption