Hello from Melbourne!

In September 2024, we left autumnal Oslo behind to embark on a research exchange at the University of Melbourne with the Critical Fashion Studies research collective. This group, led by Professor Natalya Lusty and Dr. Harriette Richards, brings together fashion scholars, practitioners, and industry members to advance research on sustainability, ethics, and innovation in fashion.

During our stay, we had the privilege of attending several inspiring events. In October, we participated in an Ethical Fashion Walking Tour, facilitated by Ethical Clothing Australia as part of Melbourne Fashion Week. The tour took us around the suburb Fitzroy, where we visited local fashion businesses, including Denim Smith, Remuse Designs, and The Social Studio – all ethically accredited.

Among these, we were particularly impressed by Remuse, which works with recycled materials and natural, low-impact dyes. Inspired by their designs, we attended a highly anticipated fashion show later that week, where Remuse was featured. The show was an incredible experience, blending art and fashion in memorable performances.

In the week before Christmas, we were invited by Dr. Alice Payne and Dr. Yassie Smith to give a talk at the RMIT School of Fashion and Textiles for the staff. During the session, we shared insights and findings from our projects and received valuable comments and questions following our presentations. This opportunity allowed us to meet several colleagues who have worked with similar theoretical and methodological perspectives, fostering important connections for potential future collaborations.

The second week of January brought the highlight of our exchange: the Critical Fashion Studies Symposium at RMIT. The symposium focused on rethinking clothing and textile practices and consisted of three panels that explored key themes within sustainable fashion research. Anna participated in the first panel, which delved into circularity and disposal. She presented findings from her project on disposal practices and garment care, with a specific focus on participants’ expressions of care, both towards other people and their clothes. The following panel discussion touched on the challenges facing second-hand clothing markets in Australia. This session provided fascinating insights into how circularity is approached within the local context. The audience expressed interest in and prior knowledge of SIFO’s clothing research and inquired about funding opportunities in Norway.

The second panel explored wardrobe stories, and the personal relationships people have with their clothing. Vilde shared findings from her research on interviews with couples, emphasizing how gender dynamics play a significant role in shaping clothing consumption. She also mentioned some findings from our scoping review of wardrobe studies and encouraged those in the audience that have worked with wardrobe studies to contribute to the wardrobe studies blog on the website. The panel highlighted how wardrobe studies can capture everyday practices that support sustainability and included findings from an intriguing wardrobe study with individuals who are blind and therefore rely on sensory engagement with their clothing.

The final panel examined remaking and repair as innovative pathways to sustainability. Topics included remake collaboration processes, community repair in Melbourne, fashion-based social enterprises, and local fashion ecologies. The discussion emphasized the need for systemic changes to promote circularity, transparency, and place-based regenerative practices in the fashion industry.

Anna returned to Oslo after the symposium while Vilde still has some travelling to look forward to and will be returning later in February. Our exchange has been an incredible journey of learning and collaboration, filled with inspiration and new perspectives on fashion, design and sustainability.

– Vilde & Anna

New papers accepted in international journals

Two new papers have been accepted by international journals relating to the WOOLUME project, one on the biodegradation of wool fibers and one on the acoustic properties.

The very latest is on the acoustic properties of tufted carpets coupled with the underlayment made from tannery wool waste: Acoustic Performance of Tufted Carpets Coupled with Underlayment Produced from Tannery Wool Waste in the journal Materials. The authors are Jan Broda, Katarzyna Kobiela-Mendrek, Marcin Baczek and Monika Rom.

To better use local sources of wool, the coarse wool of mountain sheep was used to form a carpet pile layer, while the waste wool from the tannery industry was applied to form carpet underlayment. During investigations, the acoustic performance of the carpets was assessed. The carpets’ sound absorption coefficients and transmission loss were studied, and it was revealed that the adding of underlayment improves the carpet’s sound absorption only at medium sound wave frequencies.

It was concluded that wool nonwovens can be used as an effective, eco-friendly, sound-absorbing carpet underlayment, which can improve wool utilisation and contribute to the reduction in environmental pollution caused by plastic residues.

Excessive noise has become a severe and pervasive pollutant that harmfully influences physical and mental health. Exposure to domestic noise negatively affects human well-being, impairs productivity, generates higher stress, and contributes to somatic complaints. Given the adverse effects of noise, the urgent need to reduce noise levels in homes, classrooms, open-plan offices, workplaces, and public facilities is highly significant and desirable today. For many years, various textiles used as window curtains, tapestries, upholstery, wall and ceiling panels, screens, rugs, and carpets have been used to reduce noise and improve the acoustic comfort of interiors. Among these products, carpets are the most versatile, controlling indoor noise in various ways. First, carpets lower the level of noise by absorbing airborne sound. Second, they reduce the generation of floor impact sounds produced by footfalls, furniture movement, and objects dropped onto the floor. Third, carpets minimise the noise transmission through floors to adjoining rooms in multi-storied buildings.

Pile carpets, in particular, demonstrate a significant potential for noise reduction. These carpets are made of two layers that perform different functions and have different structures.

Local Polish mountain sheep (photo: Jan Broda).

The sound absorption in the pile layer depends on the pile type (loop or cut) and its height and density. Due to the open fuzzy structure, carpets with cut piles have higher sound absorption capacity than carpets with loop piles. Increasing pile height and density increases the interphase contact surface between piles and vibrating air molecules. Then, the energy dissipated by friction is higher and the resulting sound absorption increases. The influence of other parameters characterising the pile layer, such as fibre type, yarn parameters, or knot type in knotted-pile carpets, is less distinguishable and difficult to estimate.

To access the article, click on this link.

The second of the two papers is on wool biodegradation: The Morphology of Wool Fibers Biodegraded in Natural Conditions in Soil authored by Monika Rom, Jan Broda, Tomasz Kukulski, Andrzej Gawlowski & Katarzyna Kobiela-Mendrek in the Journal of Natural Fibers.

The morphology of sheep wool applied as organic fertilizer biodegraded in the soil was examined. The investigations were conducted in natural conditions for unwashed waste wool, which was rejected during sorting and then chopped into short segments and wool pellets. Different types of wool were mixed with soil and buried in experimental plots. The wool samples were periodically taken and analyzed for one year using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and Energy-dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy (EDS). During examinations, the changes in the fibers’ morphology were observed. It was stated that cut wool and pellet are mechanically damaged, which significantly accelerates wool biodegradation and quickly destroys the whole fiber structure. On the contrary, for undamaged fibers biodegradation occurs slowly, layer by layer, in a predictable sequence. This finding has practical implications for the use of wool as an organic fertilizer, suggesting that the method of preparation can influence its biodegradation rate.

The ability of wool to support plant development in agricultural and horticultural crops has been repeatedly demonstrated. The application of wool fertilizer has led to higher yield for various vegetables and cereals. These studies have used wool of different origins and waste generated in various stages of wool processing. For instance, unprocessed and unwashed wool obtained by sheep shearing, wool sheared from animals intended for slaughter, the waste derived from scouring and carbonization, and wool recycled from shredded carpets have all been tested. In some cases, loose wool fibers were mixed with soil using agricultural machines or spread on the ground’s surface and covered with a layer of topsoil. To avoid compounding issues, the wool was cut into short segments in certain studies. In other cases, the wool was added as easily applicable pellets.

The article is available at this link.

New article from WOOLUME: Acoustic Performance of Tufted Carpets Coupled with Underlayment Produced from Tannery Wool Waste

Authors: Jan Broda, Katarzyna Kobiela-Mendrek, Marcin Baczek and Monika Rom

Abstract

Sheep wool is a precious, renewable raw material that is nowadays disregarded and wasted. To better use local sources of wool, it was used to manufacture tufted carpets. The coarse wool of mountain sheep was used to form a carpet pile layer, while the waste wool from the tannery industry was applied to form carpet underlayment. During investigations, the acoustic performance of the carpets was assessed. The carpets’ sound absorption coefficients and transmission loss were determined using the impedance tube. It was revealed that the adding of underlayment improves the carpet’s sound absorption only
at medium sound wave frequencies. The underlayment significantly increases transmission loss in the whole frequency range. The acoustic performance of the carpets with the wool underlayment is similar to the acoustic characteristics of the carpets with an underlayment made from polyester. It was concluded that wool nonwovens can be used as an effective, eco-friendly, sound-absorbing carpet underlayment, which can improve wool utilisation and contribute to the reduction in environmental pollution caused by plastic residues

Click here for full text (ebscohost.com)

Clothing Care – The Palgrave Handbook of Sustainability in Fashion

Authors: Ingrid Haugsrud, Ingun Grimstad Klepp and Kirsi Laitala

Abstract

The impact of the fashion industry on the environment is undoubtedly size-able. In response, the last decade has seen various changes in the fashion industry landscape, from new digital technologies that enhance zero waste productions, the emergence of the digital platform economy, to the development of innovative materials. This Handbook captures key innovations within the fashion industry and brings together work from leading academics, but also practitioners in the field. Offering a comprehensive and global perspective, it covers core topics such as: technological innovations and their impact on sustainable fashion, alternative models of consumption, the circular economy, the role of activism and the future of sustainable fashion. With clear managerial implications, chapters uniquely supplement conceptual work with short practitioner-led case studies that bridge the gap between theory and practice, making this a valuable resource for students and researchers.

Click here to get the full text and book (springer.com)

4th International Artefacta Conference: Resolutions

Conference, 13-14 February 2025

University of Helsinki, Finland

The conference will be organised on 13th and 14th of February 2025 in Helsinki, Finland and the conference venue is in the Main Building of the University of Helsinki, right in the centre of the town. They keynote speakers; SIFO’s own Ingun Grimstad Klepp will speak on “Product attachment in politics and wardrobes” and Professor Daniel Miller from University College London will be holding a talk about “What kind of person is a thing?”. The talks will be held on Thursday the 13th and Friday the 14th respectively.

Programme can be found here (University of Helsinki webpage)

Clothing Care

“And he don’t even care for clothes” sang Nina Simone in “My Baby Just Cares For Me” which is how the chapter “Clothing Care” opens in the new, impressive and comprehensive book “The Palgrave Handbook of Sustainability in Fashion”. 

Clothing researchers in SIFO use the Nina Simone quote to discuss the connection between “care[ing]  about clothes, people, and nature. There is a connection between care as something practical and mundane, such as washing and repairing clothes, and the more general feeling of wishing to preserve something. The chapter spans from presenting knowledge on techniques used to maintain (care for) clothing such as washing, repair and storage; to discussing the prerequisites for caring about this.”  

Ingrid Haugsrud is the first author. The text is based on data from her MA thesis in Fashion and Society from OsloMet. In 2016, she performed a wardrobe study with six informants in their 20s, and 63 favorite garments that the informants valued especially were registered. These were the garments that their wearers cared for both in emotional and practical terms. The other authors, Ingun Grimstad Klepp and Kirsi Laitala, use these specific examples to paint a picture. Together, they have extensive experience with scientific publications about different care techniques such as washing, repair and clothing use, as well as repurposing of clothing in the wardrobe. As such the text summarizes a lot of knowledge in addition to relating it back to topical discussions today; what can lead to change and the relationship between technical lifespan and longer use time.  

The chapter is a product of the CHANGE-project. It uses wardrobe studies, empirical data and discusses a variety of topics such as how one environmental challenge, the volumes of clothing that are being produced, can be reduced. It points out that helping consumers to better take care of their clothes is not a vailable solution, as consumers would only take better care of their if they owned fewer pieces. For Ingrid, this work is not only important because it brings forth the important work she did on her MA thesis, but also because it is an early preview of what she will work on in her PhD, which is fittingly a part of the larger CARE-project. She hit the ground running by acquiring a publication in the field at the very start of her PhD journey.  

We have not read the book in its entirety thus far, yet we have to prize its wide subject matter. It does not only include the environmental side of sustainability, but also the cultural and social aspects. We were able to find much more information in this book compared to most books on topics such as clothing consumption and production of clothing and shoes in and outside of Western Europe and USA.

Amazing international win!

Time to celebrate! Traditional costumes, the craftmanship and social practice from Norway, and summer farming (seter and fäbod) in both Norway and Sweden are now on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list!

This gives an unexpected boost to the Amazing Grazing project and puts some recent and older publications in a new light.

First and foremost a big congratulations to years and years of hard work from Norwegian and Swedish organizations to put these two intangible cultural heritage traditions on the radar of the global work with protecting the many disappearing or vulnerable cultural practices.

For summer farming at fäbod and seter: knowledge, traditions and practices related to the grazing of outlying lands and artisan food production, this is more related to cows and goats, and milking in Norway, however, the Cultural Ministry, when announcing the win on their web-page, chose a picture of (amazing) grazing sheep as their illustration! Traditionally, sheep in Norway were also integral in this practice. (As I can attest to, my father spent the summers of his youth at the family farm mountain seter, shepherding both sheep and cows.) It was the Swedish government, not the Norwegian, who fronted this application.

The Norwegian government, on the other hand, fronted the application of traditional costumes (bunad) in Norway, their craftsmanship and social practice.

The point is, for Clothing Research, that we need to understand ‘local’ dress better, and that the bunad is one of possibly many (or a few) dress practices where local is important, being very concrete and related to the material aspects (the textiles, the embroidery yarns, the sewing), but also the understanding of being ‘from a place’.  This is part of a concrete use of clothing that enables being a part of a geographic community, a fibershed. This is described in this paper on Local clothing: What is that and how an environmental policy concept is understood.

On the other hand, the bunad has also had an important role in keeping the Norwegian textile industry alive.

The under-pinning idea that clothing is culture, is important here, and a big win, and exactly what is missing in the EU textile strategy.

We also notice the rise of other similar inscribes into the UNESCO list:

  • The women’s ceremonial costume in the Eastern region of Algeria: knowledge and skills associated with the making and adornment of the ‘Gandoura’ and the ‘Melehfa’
  • Custom of Korean costume: traditional knowledge, skills and social practices in the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea
  • Craftsmanship of traditional woven textile Kente

The result of these two inscriptions will be a renewed interest in the cultural heritage, is assumed, but the organizations behind the applications have big plans for recruiting the younger generations and leveraging more interest both nationally and globally. 150 years ago, there were 100 000 summer seter or fäbo locations in Norway and Sweden, today there are 750 in active use in Norway, and somewhere between 200 or 250 in Sweden.

On the bunad side, the situation is brighter: there are 450 different traditional costumes in Norway, and an estimated 80% of Norwegian women own a traditional costume, and 20% of all men, this number is however, on the rise.

So what happens in the years to come, will be very interesting to follow!

Photo booth boots possible change

As part of the SIFO presence at the recent Friluftsliv conference, Kate Fletcher, ran a “Photo Booth” to record the thoughts (in a thought bubble!) of conference delegates about clothing and nature. Delegates responses ranged from desirable practical qualities of clothes for use outdoors, to the feelings that clothes imbue; and from aspiration about the potential length of life and compostability of clothes, to questions about whether clothes are needed at all when living en plein air!

A huge thank you to all those who took part and to the conference organisers for hosting us.

Kate Fletcher with a Photo Booth participant.

Post growth (?) fashion webinars

Dec. 13th 2024 15-16 CET (3-4 pm)
and
Jan. 16th 2025 15-16 CET (3-4 pm)

Two consecutive talks by Consumption Research Norway SIFO at OsloMet
First one with Prof. Ingun Klepp and Tone Tobiasson and in January Kate Fletcher.

December 13th: Prof. Ingun Klepp, Professor at the National Institute for Consumer Research, and Tone Tobiasson, Author and journalist, from Oslo, Norway. One of the most passionate and influential tandems in the textile research / policy space, with a long track record of pioneering research projects that changed our understanding of the use phase of garments, post consumer textile flows and plastification of fashion.

There is a cap for 100 people to attend each webinar. To attend, RSVP through the associated link to get a calendar invite.

January 16th. Kate Fletcher is one of the most renown sustainable fashion researchers. Her work, including that on systems change, post-growth fashionfashion localismdecentering durabilityEarth Logic and nature relations both defines and challenges the field of fashion, textiles and sustainability. She has written and/or edited 13 books available in eight languages, and in 2022 she was identified by author Margaret Atwood as a visionary. Kate is a co-founder of the Union of Concerned Researchers in Fashion. Her most recent work is about design, clothing and nature.

There is a cap for 100 people to attend each webinar. To attend, RSVP through the associated link to get the calendar invite.

Announcing the publication of Decentering Durability: Decarbonizing and Decolonizing Ideas and Practices of Long-Lasting Clothes

Just published in Fashion Theory, an article exploring durability through a decolonial lens. The research it builds on was conducted as part of the LASTING project, led by our very own Kirsi Laitala and funded by the Research Council of Norway.

The article, written by Kate Fletcher and Anna Fitzpatrick, is open access. Please share widely. Grateful thanks to all those who participated in the research. Link to article here

From the abstract: Durability is widely recognized as a key feature of materially resourceful, lower-carbon clothing lives. Yet most of what is known about long-lasting garments is rooted in Euro-American ways of thinking, and reproduces its structures, priorities, values and resulting actions. This paper brings a decolonial concern to understandings of clothing durability to enlarge the conceptual boundaries around it, including those that break apart dominant ideas and approaches to clothing durability in order to show difference. It presents both the “workings” and the “findings” of a small research project, ‘Decentering Durability’, examining both how research is conducted as well as what is uncovered at the intersection of decolonizing and resource-efficient, decarbonizing agendas for fashion.